Why Go
Many German towns and cities vie for tourists but fewer provide the authentic feeling of Germany. It is kind of hard to get into the German mood when the languages heard are English, Japanese and Italian. Aub, one of the smallest cities in Germany, is a pocket-sized tourist dream, complete with a market square (“Marktplatz”), medieval fortifications, impressive churches with world-class art and a museum - even an honest-to-goodness palace. To complete the experience, it also has several charming restaurants, hotels and bakeries. What it lacks are pesky foreign tourists and overbearing souvenir shops.
Aub is located on a picturesque hillside on the banks of the Gollach stream. As one approaches Aub, its trademark towers and spires rise up before you. To natives of Aub, this is one of the most indelible impressions of home, sure to stir the heart.
Although technically part of the Republic of Germany and, within that, the state of Bavaria, Aub’s soul is Frankish. The area known in English as “Franconia” and in German as “Franken” has a unique and historic culture that predates the modern German state by a millennium. Its forced annexation to the German state of Bavaria in the re-organization that tidied up Europe in the aftermath of Napoleonic disruptions in the early 1800s still upsets some locals. Franconia includes the cities of Nuremburg, Wuerzburg and Bayreuth. The area was for a time the seat of the Holy Roman Emperor and brought the world the likes of Richard Wagner and Albrecht Duerer, among so many other notables. Here, in Franconia, food, wine and the sound of the language are different from the rest of Germany. Local pride thrives here and after experiencing its offerings, it is understandable.
When to Go
In spite of its laid-back and quiet appearance, cultural events are regularly scheduled throughout the year. Ars Musica is a well-known established music venue on the Marktplatz that hosts chamber performances in a charming concert room. In addition, performances and special events are held in both churches as well as the Spital Museum. If you are lucky, you might even have the opportunity to hear rehearsals of operatic or traditional music wafting out of open windows as you explore the city.
For those who wish a quieter, more peaceful time in Aub, care should be taken to avoid certain major celebrations that turn the entire place into one big party. Chief among these is “Kirchweih,” held on the weekend following August 15th. Kirchweih has its roots in the celebration of the anniversary of the consecration of the local Catholic parish church but actually is a city-sponsored event that is supported by the local Catholic and Lutheran congregations as well as the many secular civic associations. The Kirchweih celebration typically includes several musical events catering to varying tastes, a mountain-bike race through the city and its vicinity, a show of local traditional dancing, children’s rides and games of skill/chance, soapbox derby, and a parade that displays local history and pride. While the religious core of the celebration can still be found today in an ecumenical service in one of the churches, the real center of the celebration is the seemingly endless supply of Franconian specialties that spill out from each of the dining establishments around the Marktplatz to the accompaniment of live music.
Having established itself in the Middle Ages as a prime trading center and marketplace, it continues the tradition in its annual Christmas and Spring/Easter markets that fill its Marktplatz. Hand-crafted goods and foods fill stalls and the entire city takes on a festive seasonal mood.
As a nod to the modern tourist industry, the city does host a mid-summer Tournament (“Ritterspiele”). Would-be knights and maidens and their followers gather in the former palace garden grounds in full regalia. In the shadow of the city’s medieval walls, a special atmosphere is created with the help of jousting and cooking demonstrations from the Dark Ages, culminating in the knightly nightly fire-display.
How to Get There
Aub is conveniently located just off the Romantic Road between Wuerzburg (the northern end of the famed Romantic Road) and the more famous tourist town of Rothenburg. Wuerzburg is easily reachable by train from Frankfurt and its Rhine-Main Airport (about one and a half hours) or Nuremburg (about one hour). Limited local rail/bus service links Aub to the Wuerzburg railway station.
By car, Aub is a pleasant half-hour drive from Wuerzburg through vineyard countryside along the Main River. Aub is easily accessible from the Autobahn. From the A3 that runs just south of Wuerzburg, take the exit to the B13 southbound and follow the signs to Aub. An exit/entrance to the A7 is about fifteen minutes through rolling fields to the east of Aub.
Although the regional rail line that used to connect Aub directly to Wuerzburg has long since ceased to operate, its length now functions as a bike path that connects to Ochsenfurt and beyond. Train service is still provided between Ochsenfurt and Wuerzburg. If arriving by the bike path, you will need to bike toward Aub and across the bridge over the Gollach to the Old City.
On Arrival
One thing that was not considered by the medieval town planners was an adequate supply of auto parking spaces. In general, streets are narrow and do not allow the opportunity for street parking. The Marktplatz does have a supply of parking spaces but those are usually unavailable during major events and in short supply during busy hours. Fortunately, parking areas are available a short distance from Old City.
Buses skirt the Old City; the bus-stop is located just across the bridge from the Old City. If entering the Old City by crossing the bridge over the Gollach, remember two things. First, you are following in the paths of ancient travelers who crossed this very way. Second, you no longer have to pay the toll.
However you arrive here, make your way to the Marktplatz, the physical business and social center of the city.
Many German towns and cities vie for tourists but fewer provide the authentic feeling of Germany. It is kind of hard to get into the German mood when the languages heard are English, Japanese and Italian. Aub, one of the smallest cities in Germany, is a pocket-sized tourist dream, complete with a market square (“Marktplatz”), medieval fortifications, impressive churches with world-class art and a museum - even an honest-to-goodness palace. To complete the experience, it also has several charming restaurants, hotels and bakeries. What it lacks are pesky foreign tourists and overbearing souvenir shops.
Aub is located on a picturesque hillside on the banks of the Gollach stream. As one approaches Aub, its trademark towers and spires rise up before you. To natives of Aub, this is one of the most indelible impressions of home, sure to stir the heart.
Although technically part of the Republic of Germany and, within that, the state of Bavaria, Aub’s soul is Frankish. The area known in English as “Franconia” and in German as “Franken” has a unique and historic culture that predates the modern German state by a millennium. Its forced annexation to the German state of Bavaria in the re-organization that tidied up Europe in the aftermath of Napoleonic disruptions in the early 1800s still upsets some locals. Franconia includes the cities of Nuremburg, Wuerzburg and Bayreuth. The area was for a time the seat of the Holy Roman Emperor and brought the world the likes of Richard Wagner and Albrecht Duerer, among so many other notables. Here, in Franconia, food, wine and the sound of the language are different from the rest of Germany. Local pride thrives here and after experiencing its offerings, it is understandable.
When to Go
In spite of its laid-back and quiet appearance, cultural events are regularly scheduled throughout the year. Ars Musica is a well-known established music venue on the Marktplatz that hosts chamber performances in a charming concert room. In addition, performances and special events are held in both churches as well as the Spital Museum. If you are lucky, you might even have the opportunity to hear rehearsals of operatic or traditional music wafting out of open windows as you explore the city.
For those who wish a quieter, more peaceful time in Aub, care should be taken to avoid certain major celebrations that turn the entire place into one big party. Chief among these is “Kirchweih,” held on the weekend following August 15th. Kirchweih has its roots in the celebration of the anniversary of the consecration of the local Catholic parish church but actually is a city-sponsored event that is supported by the local Catholic and Lutheran congregations as well as the many secular civic associations. The Kirchweih celebration typically includes several musical events catering to varying tastes, a mountain-bike race through the city and its vicinity, a show of local traditional dancing, children’s rides and games of skill/chance, soapbox derby, and a parade that displays local history and pride. While the religious core of the celebration can still be found today in an ecumenical service in one of the churches, the real center of the celebration is the seemingly endless supply of Franconian specialties that spill out from each of the dining establishments around the Marktplatz to the accompaniment of live music.
Having established itself in the Middle Ages as a prime trading center and marketplace, it continues the tradition in its annual Christmas and Spring/Easter markets that fill its Marktplatz. Hand-crafted goods and foods fill stalls and the entire city takes on a festive seasonal mood.
As a nod to the modern tourist industry, the city does host a mid-summer Tournament (“Ritterspiele”). Would-be knights and maidens and their followers gather in the former palace garden grounds in full regalia. In the shadow of the city’s medieval walls, a special atmosphere is created with the help of jousting and cooking demonstrations from the Dark Ages, culminating in the knightly nightly fire-display.
How to Get There
Aub is conveniently located just off the Romantic Road between Wuerzburg (the northern end of the famed Romantic Road) and the more famous tourist town of Rothenburg. Wuerzburg is easily reachable by train from Frankfurt and its Rhine-Main Airport (about one and a half hours) or Nuremburg (about one hour). Limited local rail/bus service links Aub to the Wuerzburg railway station.
By car, Aub is a pleasant half-hour drive from Wuerzburg through vineyard countryside along the Main River. Aub is easily accessible from the Autobahn. From the A3 that runs just south of Wuerzburg, take the exit to the B13 southbound and follow the signs to Aub. An exit/entrance to the A7 is about fifteen minutes through rolling fields to the east of Aub.
Although the regional rail line that used to connect Aub directly to Wuerzburg has long since ceased to operate, its length now functions as a bike path that connects to Ochsenfurt and beyond. Train service is still provided between Ochsenfurt and Wuerzburg. If arriving by the bike path, you will need to bike toward Aub and across the bridge over the Gollach to the Old City.
On Arrival
One thing that was not considered by the medieval town planners was an adequate supply of auto parking spaces. In general, streets are narrow and do not allow the opportunity for street parking. The Marktplatz does have a supply of parking spaces but those are usually unavailable during major events and in short supply during busy hours. Fortunately, parking areas are available a short distance from Old City.
Buses skirt the Old City; the bus-stop is located just across the bridge from the Old City. If entering the Old City by crossing the bridge over the Gollach, remember two things. First, you are following in the paths of ancient travelers who crossed this very way. Second, you no longer have to pay the toll.
However you arrive here, make your way to the Marktplatz, the physical business and social center of the city.